Using your Computer Big Screen requires alittle permanent space or area set aside for the entire thing. There has to be about 50"inches or 4 feet of area; from end-to-end.

Be sure to turn off the power to your new projector before moving it, or disconnecting. Take your time when it comes to moving this thing, and try to wait a few minutes for it to cool down before you move it or turn it back over for any reason.

Whatever you do; DO NOT screw anything to anything while plugged-in! Be extra carefull when mounting things together, and be sure that NO screws are touching a circuit borad or make contact with anything other than wood or plastic.

The trick to having a monitor work as a big screen; is the fact that; it has to work up-side-down. I have tried several VGA displays and monitors, and found that the older line of IBM monitors (8513,8514...etc) work the best. They weigh more than the others, but are built like tanks; and seem to hold their color and sync just fine.

Operating the VGA projector for more than a couple hours will produce extreme heat to the 'under-side' (top) of the circuit board inside the monitor. If you can...install a small cooling fan (CPU Fan) or similar to the top-area or under-side of the monitor to prevent longterm damage. If you have a desk-fan; then use it by placing it directly behind or above the monitor now upside-down (projector).

The lens casing (the non-working VGA cover) holds the lens at the right angle and offers 'vents' to let the heat out from the top. This part of the projector does not need a fan, and must be kept clear at all times when on & operating. Be very exact when cutting the lens hole... you may not get a second chance. Also, when mounting the two monitor cases together, try to allow for servicing (lens cleaning, etc...) by using common screws and not tightening too much.

The length of the I/O cable needs to reach your computer, and can be increased by a VGA/Monitor Extention Cable if you need it, but they can be rather expensive (about $40).

The "Focal Distance" has to be determined before you begin on this project, and all distances should be written down. The focal point can be had on most lenses by holding upto a light source (ceiling light) while holding a peice of blank paper in the other hand. My distance varied from (25" to 26.5") Try to get the distance between the lens and the peice of paper steady while you messure the distance for the focused image of the light on the paper. You should get an exact image of the light, but much bigger on the peice of paper when it's near or at the focal point.

Once you get the exact distance needed for your screen position, you are ready to start on the construction of the big screen. Using the 'ol shower curtain; you will need to turn-up the 'brightness' and 'contrast' on the projector because the shower liner will absorb about 1/8th to 1/3rd of the brightness and intensity. (the fernell lens absorbs about 1/32th).

I used a pair of 'letter holders' to stablize the screen; you might try 'napkin holders or something similar; they allowed me to slide the screen back-and-forth (on the screen base; which is a 1/2inch 4"x36"laminated wall shelf) a few inches at a time, inorder to adjust focal point (depth). You have to concider the focal depth to the projector; because, you are going to be using a 'round' lens and a 'flat screen'. There will be times when you might want the center of the screen sharp and the edges dull, or maybe the edges sharp, but the center dull; whatever you decide, you'll never get both at the same time unless you can construct a curved or better yet, a "round screen".

The screen should be able to move slightly back & forth to give you the best image possible. Mounting the trim beams (moulding) to the screen should be concidered before you mount them to the projector. If you just secure them to the screen side, then let them move freely (an inch or two) on the other end if possible.